XV PRINTOUT 4

DESIGN-A-PATTERN XV

from Ileen's Needle Nook (www.ileen.com)

written by Mike and Ileen Levy (ileen@ileen.com)

A sleeveless shaped cardigan vest was used to illustrate Design-A-Pattern Volume #4. The back panel was knitted in stockinette stitch while the two front panels were knitted with a 3-color slip stitch design from Brother's Stitchworld Pattern Book #1. Front panels were connected with buttons and chains.

Volume #4 Screen Descriptions

1) Information Screen Description

Information Screen selections were entered for a concave bottom vest, capsleeve armhole, rounded-V front neckline and adjustable crew back neckline. Two yarn swatches were knitted since the solid-color back panel had different gauges than the front panels with 3-color slip stitch design.

2) Measurements Screen Description

Starter sizing was selected to enter measurements for a Women's size 34 (38" chest). The printout lists all measurements used for this sweater example.

3) Design Screen Description

Garment panels are displayed to calculate rows and stitches directly from black pixels on this screen. Panels are automatically redrawn when measurement or styling options are changed.

4) Graphic and Text Printout Screen Descriptions

The graphics screen is used to create pictures of pattern panels with various grid overlays while the Text Printout screen is used to create pattern text directions. Outputs from both screens can be copied, edited or printed. For this example, front panels were calculated and printed separately since they had different yarn gauges than the back panel..

ROW-BY-ROW PATTERN DIRECTIONS

Design-A-Pattern row-by-row directions read like a knitting machine showing right-side and left-side (-) needles for each row when the number of in-work needles increase or decrease. Straight knitting is used between listed row numbers. Knitted rows for body panels are also listed as an alert to start armhole or neckline shaping.

Back Panel Knitting Descriptions

Pattern Style : CONCAVE BOTTOM VEST

Armhole Style : CAPSLEEVE

Back Neckline : ADJUSTABLE CREW

Yarn Name : Millor Trenzado

Yarn Gauges : 10.0 Rows/Inch 8.5 Sts/Inch

MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY (Inches) PANEL PANEL

__________MAIN BODY PANELS_________ ___ROWS__ __NEEDLES____

23.50 : Total Back Length 235 ---

15.00 : Waist Length 150 ---

10.00 : Finished Armhole Depth 100 ---

42.00 : Finished Chest Circumference --- 178

42.00 : Finished Waist Circumference --- 178

42.00 : Finished Bottom Circumference --- 178

01.00 : Shoulder Taper 010 ---

17.00 : Shoulder Width --- 144

_____________NECKLINES_____________ ___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__

10.00 : Neckline Width --- 084

02.00 : Back Neckline Depth 020 ---

BACK PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS - BOTTOM-TO-TOP

_____ LEFT SIDE ____ ROW ____ RIGHT SIDE ____

Total Stop Start NUMBER Start Stop Total

===== ==== ===== ====== ===== ==== =====

89 -089 -001 < 001 > 001 089 89

START ARMHOLE

86 -086 -001 < 125 > 001 086 86

83 -083 -001 < 126 > 001 083 83

81 -081 -001 < 127 > 001 081 81

80 -080 -001 < 128 > 001 080 80

78 -078 -001 < 129 > 001 078 78

77 -077 -001 < 130 > 001 077 77

76 -076 -001 < 132 > 001 076 76

75 -075 -001 < 133 > 001 075 75

74 -074 -001 < 135 > 001 074 74

73 -073 -001 < 137 > 001 073 73

72 -072 -001 < 142 > 001 072 72

START NECKLINE

69 -072 -004 < 214 > 004 072 69

59 -072 -014 < 215 > 014 072 59

53 -072 -020 < 216 > 020 072 53

50 -072 -023 < 217 > 023 072 50

46 -072 -027 < 218 > 027 072 46

44 -072 -029 < 219 > 029 072 44

41 -072 -032 < 220 > 032 072 41

40 -072 -033 < 221 > 033 072 40

38 -072 -035 < 222 > 035 072 38

37 -072 -036 < 223 > 036 072 37

33 -070 -038 < 224 > 038 070 33

29 -067 -039 < 225 > 039 067 29

24 -063 -040 < 226 > 040 063 24

20 -060 -041 < 227 > 041 060 20

17 -057 -041 < 228 > 041 057 17

13 -054 -042 < 229 > 042 054 13

10 -051 -042 < 230 > 042 051 10

6 -047 -042 < 232 > 042 047 6

3 -044 -042 < 236 > 042 044 3

LAST ROW

Cast on 178 sts (89 needles on each side of machine), and knit straight until "armhole" shaping begins at row #125. Decrease outside needles on both sides as directed through row #142 for armhole shaping. Knit straight until neckline shaping begins at row #214. At this point, put all the needles on the opposite side of the carriage in hold position. Short-row shape both the neckline and the shoulder slope at the same time. Take the shoulder stitches off on ravel cord and waste yarn. Repeat for the other side of the back panel. Finish the neckline in the method of your choice. The back panel is now completed.

Front Left Panel Knitting Description

Front Neckline: FRONT: ROUNDED V-NECK

Name of Yarn : Millor Trenzado & Twilley Goldfingering

Row Gauge : 10.50 Rows/Inch

Stitch Gauge : 9.50 Sts/Inch

MEASUREMENTS SUMMARY (Inches) PANEL PANEL

__________MAIN BODY PANELS_________ ___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__

26.00 : Total Front Panel Length 273 ---

15.00 : Waist Length 157 ---

10.00 : Finished Armhole Depth 105 ---

02.50 : Bottom Edge Length 026 ---

42.00 : Finished Chest Circumference --- 200

42.00 : Finished Waist Circumference --- 200

42.00 : Finished Bottom Circumference --- 200

01.00 : Shoulder Taper 011 ---

17.00 : Shoulder Width --- 162

00.00 : Front Panel Overlap (Left) --- 000

00.00 : Front Panel Overlap (Right) --- 000

02.50 : Vest Bottom Inset --- 024

_____________NECKLINES_____________ ___ROWS__ __NEEDLES__

10.00 : Neckline Width --- 096

15.00 : Front Neckline Depth (Left) 158 ---

15.00 : Front Neckline Depth (Right) 158 ---

Determine the widest part of the panel (100 sts). Start with waste yarn and ravel cord to establish the base for vest bottom shaping. Cast on 2 sts (needles 23 & 24), and knit 1 row. Cast on 1 stitch (needle 24), and knit 1 row. Continue casting on, and knit as directed until row #26 to complete the bottom shaping. Knit straight until neckline shaping begins at row #117. Cast off inside needles as directed. Begin casting off outside needles at row #158 for armhole shaping. Continue shaping per row directions (armhole decreases are complete at row #174 while neckline shaping continues). Start short-row shaping for the shoulder slope on row #264. When the shoulder shaping is completed, remove these open stitches on ravel cord and waste yarn.

FRONT LEFT PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS (BOTTOM TO TOP)

ROW LEFT RIGHT TOTAL

NUMBER NEEDLE NEEDLE NEEDLES

====== ====== ====== =======

001 23 24 2 START VEST BOTTOM SHAPING

002 22 24 3

003 21 24 4

004 20 25 6

006 19 26 8

007 18 27 10

008 16 27 12

009 16 28 13

010 14 30 17

012 12 33 22

013 11 35 25

015 10 37 28

016 9 40 32

017 8 42 35

018 7 45 39

019 6 49 44

020 5 53 49

022 3 63 61

024 2 70 69

025 1 80 80

026 1 100 100 END VEST BOTTOM SHAPING

117 3 100 97 START NECKLINE SHAPING

118 5 100 95

119 6 100 94

120 7 100 93

121 8 100 92

123 9 100 91

125 10 100 90

127 11 100 89

128 12 100 88

130 13 100 87

134 14 100 86

135 15 100 85

137 16 100 84

140 17 100 83

143 18 100 82

145 19 100 81

148 20 100 80

150 21 100 79

155 22 100 78 START ARMHOLE SHAPING

158 23 96 74

159 23 92 70

161 24 90 67

163 24 87 64

164 24 86 63

165 25 85 61

166 25 84 60

168 26 83 58

171 26 82 57

173 27 82 56

174 27 81 55

176 28 81 54

181 29 81 53

184 30 81 52

189 31 81 51

193 32 81 50

198 33 81 49

203 34 81 48

207 35 81 47

211 36 81 46

217 37 81 45

221 38 81 44

227 39 81 43

233 40 81 42

237 41 81 41

244 42 81 40

249 43 81 39

255 44 81 38

262 45 81 37 START SHOULDER TAPERING

264 45 78 34

265 45 75 31

266 45 71 27

267 45 67 23

268 46 64 19

269 46 60 15

271 46 57 12

272 46 53 8

273 46 50 5 LAST ROW

FRONT RIGHT PANEL ROW DIRECTIONS

Since both front panels are symmetrical, knit the front right panel by simply inverting directions to the left side of the knitting machine.

Assembly and Trim Description

1. Block all panels to insure proper sizing.

2. Seam front and back panel shoulders together, using the method you prefer.

3. Seam the front and back sides together.

4. Edging was added to the vest using a design from Bonnie Triola's "100 Machine Knit Trims and Edges". The trim was knitted long enough for both front panels and back neckline before being sewn to the garment.

5. Vest closures were made from inexpensive buttons and thin chain from a hardware store. Buttonholes were not needed. One chain end was attached to a button and sewn to the left front panel. The other end of the chain link was opened enough to slip it on and off the button shank. The button was sewn on the right panel, and the chain was connected.

Repeat for the second set of buttons and chain.